Why is Sustainable Fashion More Expensive?
If I could give one piece of advice to the graduating classes, it might be: Just save up for a Vitamix! All those $30 blenders are going to cost more in the long run.
Which is how I feel about the premium associated with sustainable fashion. I'm often asked, when is ethical clothing going to get cheaper? While I understand the question, especially as it relates to privilege, my answer is, "I'm not interested in being cheap." Don't be fooled - cheap prices are an indication of cheap materials and cheap manufacturing. Aspiring to pay next-to-nothing for clothing is devaluing our planet and our people.
Fair fashion is just that - fair. The price tag reflects the integrity. Unlike luxury fashion, the cost of sustainable fashion isn't arbitrary or contingent upon brand value. Or upon economies of scale, as with fast fashion. The cost of ethical labor, environmentally-friendly materials, quality craftsmanship and supply chain transparency are only expensive in relation to our expectations and education. Awareness will upgrade our relationship to perceived value.
Most New Yorker's have no problem spending $200 or more on a nice meal, theater seats or concert tickets. So why do we freeze up when it comes to fashion?
Since the rise of fast fashion in the 90's and online shopping in the 2000's, clothing has been increasingly devalued. While the price of everything around us has gone up, the price of clothing continues to go down. We now spend the smallest percentage on clothes ever in history, and for more items than ever. A disposable and deal-obsessed consumerist culture perpetuates the demand for synthetic materials, exploited labor and patriarchal business models. We've been conditioned to accumulate as much as possible for as little as possible rather than to shop for less, but better. Shopping is all about getting a deal and nothing about origin or impact. It's the wardrobe equivalent of junk food.
I'm aware of the privilege associated with slow shopping. Paying more for sustainable fashion isn't accessible to much of the world. I'm also aware of the hypocrisy of preaching to rural communities about "living green" from my place in the big city. But this is where policy change happens, this is where product design happens, this is where trends are set. If those with advantage, influence and income don't use it for good, who will?
The brand, and the consumer, need to be ready and willing to pay true cost. To feel GOOD about paying true cost, because it means we are not deferring the cost to somewhere, someone, else. It means we are putting our money where our mouths are; investing in our values. Skin in the game. We must recalibrate our budgets accordingly. Reeducate ourselves to buy less, but better. Revalue CPW (Cost Per Wear).
By all means, wait for the sale if the price tag is still aspirational. But if you can afford to, pay full price! As a small business representative of true cost, when I run a sale, it means I’m not paying myself - just covering costs. Fair trade and ethical business needs - and notices - your trust, loyalty and support. Supplement and subsidize your investment purchases with used and vintage pieces.
Nothing is created without impact or sacrifice. For conventional fashion, it's the world: the workers, the waters, the wildlife. For sustainable fashion, it's the paper money in your pocket. Which is ultimately more expensive? Are we in this for the long game, or will the quick fix prevail?
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“Money is like water - that’s why we call it a currency - it’s a current. Money carries our intention. If we use it with integrity, then it carries integrity forward. Know the flow - take responsibility for the way your money moves in the world. Let your money express your soul.” - Lynne Twist